All in Good Time

Time is of the essence.  No where is this less true than in Ghana.  'Ghanaian time' takes getting used to.  Tro-tros do not follow a schedule, nor a set route (three times I have taken a tro-tro to 'Odowna', and each time I have been dropped off in different places, forced to once again find my way to work); buses going out of town leave only when every seat is taken; people arrive to work when is convenient and take 2 hour lunch breaks; scheduled meetings or conferences often start late or end up in no shows. We've now been waiting for a week for a plumber to come fix our shower-head.

When I first arrived, I asked the club president more than once to coordinate a meeting with the editorial team. "Kallan, there is no hurry, we have lots of time".   When a meeting was finally called, only two members showed up. Albeit frustrating, we had been warned that our first month of work would be an adjustment.  "Take this opportunity to relax a bit, things will be slow but you'll get them done", I was advised by my placement supervisor. My co-interns working in newsrooms are also learning that for many Ghanaian journalists, the story gets done when it gets done.  And so, as much as I may grind my teeth over deadlines and delays, I'm starting to relax and realize that sometimes time is what we make of it.

North American culture is strict with timing and we are quick to judge those who do not adhere to schedules- and for good reason.  Our lives are fast-paced as we strive to accomplish as much in a day as possible.  Of course it is disrespectful if you show up late to a meeting, or it is a complete nuisance if your bus doesn't leave on time but this is a result of living in a society that focuses on the individual rather than the collective.  We seem to always be in a hurry.  Rarely do we take the time to stop and enjoy the small things in life, including each other.

In 2007, a casually-dressed man took out his violin at a Washington DC Metro Station and played six Bach pieces over the course of an hour. In that time, 1,100 people passed him.  Most were rushing on their way to work and few stopped to listen.  Three minutes in, one man stopped, briefly, before rushing off.  One minute later, a woman walking by dropped a dollar into his hat then hurried on.  By the end of the hour, only 6 people had stopped to listen and approximately 20 gave money while passing by.  He collected a total of $32.  When he was finished and put his instrument away, there was no applause.

So what is so special about this story?  The man was Joshua Bell, a world-renowned classical musician.  His violin was worth 3.5 million dollars.  His show in Boston 2 days earlier had sold out, with the average ticket costing $100.  You can read the full, lengthy story courtesy of the National Post here: http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/article/2007/04/04/AR2007040401721.html 

I too can relate to the hustle and bustle of a morning commute.  Were it me and I was rushing to catch my train, I can't say that I for sure would have taken the time to stop.

As observed by a blogger for The Long Now Foundation: "If we do not have a moment to stop and listen to one of the best musicians in the world, playing some of the finest music ever written, with one of the most beautiful instruments ever made, how many other things are we missing?"

I've made it my mission to observe, enjoy and take in as much of the culture and beauty of Ghana as I can.  I don't want to miss anything. As someone whose weakness, I admit, is observing my surroundings,  I'm hoping being here will help change that.  I try to greet people whether it's the old woman selling water down the street or the children grinning from ear to ear because they've spotted on Obroni.  I ask questions and though I am here to teach, I want to learn as much as I possibly can.

Yesterday myself and two students piled into a crammed van with little leg space and no air conditioning at Kineshi Market, for our three hour journey to Cape Coast to chase a lead on a story.  As expected, there was no set time to leave and we all patiently waited for the car to fill with passengers. Then we were off, weaving in and out of traffic (might I add, with little care for rules of the road; at one point our driver passed a car and remained driving for one full minute in the oncoming lane! Traffic and road deaths are another post in itself), and eventually exiting Accra.

I had brought a book with me to pass time during the anticipated long ride thinking it would be a good chance to do some light reading.  As we left Accra however, I decided that the next few hours would be spent taking in as much as I could, seeing as this was my first trip outside the city.

I made the right decision.  Had I been reading my book, I wouldn't have noticed the young boy, all alone, walking along a dirt path on the highway whilst balancing a pile of wood on his head; why is he not in school?  I would not have observed the hundreds of roadside stands, some only metres apart, of coconuts, pineapples, papaya and plantane; how does each person make a living when there are so many? Nor the schoolyards of children playing soccer, the herd of sheep wandering through town or the men dangling monkeys for sale by their tails.   I would likely have not paid attention to the many street vendors who come up to the car windows when traffic slows, selling anything from food and water to phone credit and flip flops and running after the vehicle as it starts to pull away just to ensure they make a sale.  I would have missed the community of women selling kenkey, what I misheard as pancake, a dumpling-like dish made of corn, each individual sitting behind a painted name plaque; 'Patience,  Doris, Auntie Esther'.   I would not have glanced at the small businesses with names like 'Faith Tailor', 'Glorious Jesus Boutique' or 'Shalom Salon', an indication of just how large a role religion plays in the lives of Ghanaians. N.b. Christianity is prominent in the South while it is predominantly Islamic in the North; a peaceful co-existence.

I wouldn't have noted the amount of slums surrounded by beach resorts or beautiful compounds.  I would never have seen the small child crouching in a landfill to relieve themselves because 2.3 million Ghanaians don't have access to a toilet, with poor sanitation and dirty water as the cause of death for 2,000 Ghanaian children every day.  I would not have spotted a naked old man standing in a busy market, a grin on his face, perhaps too poor to afford clothing, perhaps mentally ill or perhaps just enjoying life because sometimes the inner Richard Hatch in all of us wants to come out.

Most of all I wouldn't have had the privilege of taking in the luscious landscape that is Ghana, abundant in coconut trees, vast rolling hills and dense forests.

This is the livelihood of Ghanaians.  It is how many of its 25 million people live, work play and even survive.  Had I chosen to read, those moments would have been lost in time.  I would have missed it all.  A 3 hour drive taught me way more than any book ever could, giving me a small peek into the complex lives of those living in a country stricken with poverty.  Yet they smile, laugh and take the time to chat to one another because there is no need to rush.  There is just a need to get by, one day at a time.

Time is of the essence. In another sense this is true because in the end, we have so little of it.  It's up to us to choose how we spend it.  We can all learn something from Ghanaian culture. Listen, observe, relax and take time to enjoy.  You just might find something you didn't know you were looking for.

An Obroni in Africa

To my friends and family,

I'm going to start this post by sharing a link to a blog post I bookmarked a while ago:

http://www.marcandangel.com/2012/11/12/10-life-lessons-people-learn-too-late/

In the wake of a tragedy, the passing of the wonderful and always smiling Joanna Lam, I now more than ever believe in living in the moment.  Though Joanna and I hadn't spoken in years, I recently sent her a Facebook message wishing her safe travels and asking if she would like any NZ travel advice, to which she eagerly responded.  Little did I know she would never get a chance to see so many of the beautiful spots I visited, or to meet some of my nearest and dearest kiwis I told her I would connect her with. I've traveled the same road, taken some of the same steps.  What happened to Joanna could happen to anyone, but I can't seem to wrap my head around it being someone I know, let alone to someone who seemed to have been living life to the fullest. I dedicate this first post to Jo- to someone who was as adventurous, free spirited and caring as they come.  Please, if you can, donate to her memorial fund so that her family can bring her body home: https://secure.ohfoundation-fondationho.ca/registrant/memoriam.aspx?EventID=131420&LangPref=en-CA&Referrer=direct%2Fnone
This is a little something that can make a difference during this difficult time.  Kudos to the Ottawa Hospital Foundation for setting it up.

As I continue to explore the world, the following 'life lesson' is one I will continue to live by:

 Your life is not between the moments of your birth and death.  Your life is between now and your next breath.  The present – the here and now – is all the life you ever get.  So live each moment in full, in kindness and peace, without fear and regret.  And do the best you can with what you have in this moment; because that is all you can ever expect of anyone, including yourself. 

Thanks Jo, for living your life with so much kindness, and for showing us all how important living in the moment truly is.


And so it begins. I'm here in Ghana, off on a new adventure.  I came into this thinking it'd be a fairly easy transition- Accra is a fairly developed city with a 3 story, glassed in KFC, many ex-pats and TONS of cabs.  There is also a lot of poverty, slums and stories to be written- which is why I am working with my students to write about things that matter to them and their communities.  I can't wait to share some of their work with you. This blog is to record my own personal stories and to keep you all informed.  I hope you enjoy!

 Turns out settling in is not so simple.  The hardest adjustment is meeting people.  We've all been so busy going through orientation, starting our jobs and getting to know Accra, but in our down time I can see how it could be a lonely place if you don't try to make new friends.  The search is on!  My students are a great start.

The city wakes up at 5am as the regular day to day activities commence.  The vendors set up their shops (many of them made from old shipping containers).  As I type this, the distant sound of a base can be heard (which generally starts at 6am and goes till late), alongside the chirping of birds and children's voices.  I live in a neighbourhood called South La.  It is safe, around the corner from a small beach.  In the mornings I can buy fresh pineapple and coconut from a vendor.  The pineapple is so sweet and practically melts in your mouth.  Pure bliss.  It is an hour's commute to work on a tro-tro- the Ghanaian version of a (packed) minibus. Standing on the dirt corner, the tro-tro's drive by, each yelling their destination out the window, "Labadi labadi labadi".."Circ, circ, circ..", sliding open their doors as bodies hop in and out, squishing together in a vehicle allowing little air circulation.  Sometimes children sitting on their mothers laps stare over at me, the look in their eyes is at times fear, other times curiosity.  I have yet to make any cry thankfully! I hand my 'mate' (fare collector) 50 pesewas (25 cents) to hop the tro-tro to Circle, the part of the city where you are heckled to buy copious amounts of goods- phones, purses, sunglasses, gidgets and gadgets..you name it. The men can be aggressive (shouting at you to buy things, asking you to marry them), luckily I can avoid the majority of them and either walk to work from Circle or hop another tro-tro.  I am learning to hold my own- if you shout at them they get embarrassed and relent.  I enjoy my school and the students are all very friendly.  It is a bit taboo to bring your own lunch so I usually eat on campus or nearby; a combination of fried chicken or some fish, rice, spaghetti and salad.  For 2 Cedis (1 dollar) and a big plate of food you can't go wrong.  My pallet for spice is something I have yet to develop! 

Today I popped into the pharmacy.  "Hi! Do you remember me?" asked the woman working. "I remember you" she said.  "You're Akua" (pronounced A-kwee-a).   "But I don't remember your other name".  I re-introduced myself and embarrassed I asked her her name again. Dorothy.  We met yesterday, when I went to buy some groceries and had introduced myself to all present.  The woman behind the counter told me her name was Afua and introduced Dorothy.  In Ghana, some names are dictated by the day of the week you are born, a tribal tradition, and they are different for both males and females. Afua means Friday, and Kofi is Friday for men. For whatever reason there are a LOT of Kofi's here.  My name, Akua, is Wednesday.
 "Ah" I told the woman, "My name is Kallan but I believe I am Akua".  "Ohhh she is Akua too! You share names!" she replied, pointing to a young girl sitting .  I smiled at her. "Nice to meet you Akua. I guess there are two of us now!"  The girl smiled back and as soon as I walked away, all of them burst into laughter.

"I have a question" I asked Dorothy today.  "Why did you all laugh when I walked away yesterday?  Is it because I am Obroni?" (Obroni means white person). "It is because you are Obroni and speak twi" she replied.  Twi is the local language, though I live in a Ga (the other prominent language, though not nearly as widespread as twi) neighbourhood.  I have made it my mission to learn as many phrases in twi as possible.  While at a store at the University of Ghana, I thanked the guy behind the counter in twi: "Medaase". "You speak twi??" he asked, astonished.  "I'm learning..slowly" I said.  I generally say thank you in twi as often as I can, but usually my cab driver, or the person helping me, scoffs.

I laughed and told Dorothy I only speak a couple of phrases, but I want to learn as much about Ghanaian culture as possible.  I then asked her if it's offensive if I try to speak twi because I am just learning and can't actually make full sentences (and everyone here speaks English).  No, she replied, people will want to talk to you more if you speak twi to them.  "I can teach you", she said enthusiastically.

On my way back from the pharmacy I stopped to buy some oatmeal and bread at a market stand "Obroni", the woman greeted me, and smiled.  "My name is Kallan", I smiled back. "I have just moved in, I hope to see you lots. Medaase".  She grinned and handed me my purchases. "Akwaaba (welcome) Kallan. See you again".

I think I am going to like this neighbourhood.

My wee house

Just up the street

Local grocery store

An evening fry up around the corner