Monday, September 30, 2013

An Obroni in Africa

To my friends and family,

I'm going to start this post by sharing a link to a blog post I bookmarked a while ago:

http://www.marcandangel.com/2012/11/12/10-life-lessons-people-learn-too-late/

In the wake of a tragedy, the passing of the wonderful and always smiling Joanna Lam, I now more than ever believe in living in the moment.  Though Joanna and I hadn't spoken in years, I recently sent her a Facebook message wishing her safe travels and asking if she would like any NZ travel advice, to which she eagerly responded.  Little did I know she would never get a chance to see so many of the beautiful spots I visited, or to meet some of my nearest and dearest kiwis I told her I would connect her with. I've traveled the same road, taken some of the same steps.  What happened to Joanna could happen to anyone, but I can't seem to wrap my head around it being someone I know, let alone to someone who seemed to have been living life to the fullest. I dedicate this first post to Jo- to someone who was as adventurous, free spirited and caring as they come.  Please, if you can, donate to her memorial fund so that her family can bring her body home: https://secure.ohfoundation-fondationho.ca/registrant/memoriam.aspx?EventID=131420&LangPref=en-CA&Referrer=direct%2Fnone
This is a little something that can make a difference during this difficult time.  Kudos to the Ottawa Hospital Foundation for setting it up.

As I continue to explore the world, the following 'life lesson' is one I will continue to live by:

 Your life is not between the moments of your birth and death.  Your life is between now and your next breath.  The present – the here and now – is all the life you ever get.  So live each moment in full, in kindness and peace, without fear and regret.  And do the best you can with what you have in this moment; because that is all you can ever expect of anyone, including yourself. 

Thanks Jo, for living your life with so much kindness, and for showing us all how important living in the moment truly is.


And so it begins. I'm here in Ghana, off on a new adventure.  I came into this thinking it'd be a fairly easy transition- Accra is a fairly developed city with a 3 story, glassed in KFC, many ex-pats and TONS of cabs.  There is also a lot of poverty, slums and stories to be written- which is why I am working with my students to write about things that matter to them and their communities.  I can't wait to share some of their work with you. This blog is to record my own personal stories and to keep you all informed.  I hope you enjoy!

 Turns out settling in is not so simple.  The hardest adjustment is meeting people.  We've all been so busy going through orientation, starting our jobs and getting to know Accra, but in our down time I can see how it could be a lonely place if you don't try to make new friends.  The search is on!  My students are a great start.

The city wakes up at 5am as the regular day to day activities commence.  The vendors set up their shops (many of them made from old shipping containers).  As I type this, the distant sound of a base can be heard (which generally starts at 6am and goes till late), alongside the chirping of birds and children's voices.  I live in a neighbourhood called South La.  It is safe, around the corner from a small beach.  In the mornings I can buy fresh pineapple and coconut from a vendor.  The pineapple is so sweet and practically melts in your mouth.  Pure bliss.  It is an hour's commute to work on a tro-tro- the Ghanaian version of a (packed) minibus. Standing on the dirt corner, the tro-tro's drive by, each yelling their destination out the window, "Labadi labadi labadi".."Circ, circ, circ..", sliding open their doors as bodies hop in and out, squishing together in a vehicle allowing little air circulation.  Sometimes children sitting on their mothers laps stare over at me, the look in their eyes is at times fear, other times curiosity.  I have yet to make any cry thankfully! I hand my 'mate' (fare collector) 50 pesewas (25 cents) to hop the tro-tro to Circle, the part of the city where you are heckled to buy copious amounts of goods- phones, purses, sunglasses, gidgets and gadgets..you name it. The men can be aggressive (shouting at you to buy things, asking you to marry them), luckily I can avoid the majority of them and either walk to work from Circle or hop another tro-tro.  I am learning to hold my own- if you shout at them they get embarrassed and relent.  I enjoy my school and the students are all very friendly.  It is a bit taboo to bring your own lunch so I usually eat on campus or nearby; a combination of fried chicken or some fish, rice, spaghetti and salad.  For 2 Cedis (1 dollar) and a big plate of food you can't go wrong.  My pallet for spice is something I have yet to develop! 

Today I popped into the pharmacy.  "Hi! Do you remember me?" asked the woman working. "I remember you" she said.  "You're Akua" (pronounced A-kwee-a).   "But I don't remember your other name".  I re-introduced myself and embarrassed I asked her her name again. Dorothy.  We met yesterday, when I went to buy some groceries and had introduced myself to all present.  The woman behind the counter told me her name was Afua and introduced Dorothy.  In Ghana, some names are dictated by the day of the week you are born, a tribal tradition, and they are different for both males and females. Afua means Friday, and Kofi is Friday for men. For whatever reason there are a LOT of Kofi's here.  My name, Akua, is Wednesday.
 "Ah" I told the woman, "My name is Kallan but I believe I am Akua".  "Ohhh she is Akua too! You share names!" she replied, pointing to a young girl sitting .  I smiled at her. "Nice to meet you Akua. I guess there are two of us now!"  The girl smiled back and as soon as I walked away, all of them burst into laughter.

"I have a question" I asked Dorothy today.  "Why did you all laugh when I walked away yesterday?  Is it because I am Obroni?" (Obroni means white person). "It is because you are Obroni and speak twi" she replied.  Twi is the local language, though I live in a Ga (the other prominent language, though not nearly as widespread as twi) neighbourhood.  I have made it my mission to learn as many phrases in twi as possible.  While at a store at the University of Ghana, I thanked the guy behind the counter in twi: "Medaase". "You speak twi??" he asked, astonished.  "I'm learning..slowly" I said.  I generally say thank you in twi as often as I can, but usually my cab driver, or the person helping me, scoffs.

I laughed and told Dorothy I only speak a couple of phrases, but I want to learn as much about Ghanaian culture as possible.  I then asked her if it's offensive if I try to speak twi because I am just learning and can't actually make full sentences (and everyone here speaks English).  No, she replied, people will want to talk to you more if you speak twi to them.  "I can teach you", she said enthusiastically.

On my way back from the pharmacy I stopped to buy some oatmeal and bread at a market stand "Obroni", the woman greeted me, and smiled.  "My name is Kallan", I smiled back. "I have just moved in, I hope to see you lots. Medaase".  She grinned and handed me my purchases. "Akwaaba (welcome) Kallan. See you again".

I think I am going to like this neighbourhood.


My wee house

Just up the street

Local grocery store

An evening fry up around the corner

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